Field Visit: Masoala Peninsula in Madagascar

Golden arrival at Masoala

Arriving by boat, golden afternoon light touched the peaks of Masoala Forest lodge, radiating through the surrounding forest. Gentle waves accompanied our footsteps onto the white sand, immediately grounding me in the surroundings.

As excitement filled each second, warm, heartfelt smiles welcomed us into the space we will call home for the next few days.

Sitting around the fire, the last light kissed the horizon as the day eased to an end, but the exploring had only just begun. Embers glowed and crackled softly as darkness covered the forest, shifting into something unknown.

Into the night forest

As we set off on the night walk, my senses felt almost shocked, alert, and faintly nervous.

Torches swept the canopy in search of shy nocturnal species, as the earthy scent of damp soil rose from the forest floor, blending with the salt-laced air. The breeze stirred branches above, moving the forest as if in breath herself.

By removing our main sense of sight, every creaking branch felt louder, sharper. Every sound felt intentional. Insects drummed in a steady pulse, a restless rhythm weaving through the darkness.

The forest no longer revealed herself in bright colours, but in movement, in sound. A loud insistence; to be felt rather than seen. The humid air felt electric, filled with anticipation as we moved through a world unchanged and untouched. In the darkness, guided by sound and faint eye shine, our guides navigated the undergrowth, interpreting the nocturnal creatures as they unveiled themselves.

High in the canopy.
A pulse.
A pair of luminous eyes caught the beam of light.
An aye-aye feeding amongst branches.

Otherworldly, unique and most of all extraordinary, these are the words that possibly best describe the aye-aye. I stood without words, or perhaps wordless, as the world’s largest nocturnal primate attentively moved through the canopy.

Acutely aware of the privilege of seeing this endangered creature. Its presence here as vital as the trees, wind and seas.

Settling in for the night, my mind and soul raced, soothed only by the faint crashing of waves and the knowledge that the exploration had only just begun.

Calls of the forest: Red ruffed lemurs

After enjoying an early morning coffee, we set off with a clear mission: to observe the red ruffed lemur, found only in the primary forests of Masoala National Park.

The short boat ride stirred excitement and anticipation, not only for the chance of rare sightings, but for our first encounter with one of Madagascar’s last truly untouched primary forests. Our skipper gently beached the boat on a pristine stretch of beach, and our search began.

Climbing the rocky slopes, surrounded by an ocean of green, our skilled guide, Pascal, drew our attention to the small details. Slight movements, fleeting shapes, tiny lives woven into the forest’s tapestry.

As morning light filtered through the canopy, the foliage around us shifted from layered gradients of green to a soft gold. With every step, the connection to the ancient forest and her inhabitants deepened, and a vibrant current of energy overruled any fatigue or humidity.

We paused.
Absorbing the forest’s subtle chorus of unseen life.
Until the subtlety was broken by a declaration.
Tearing through the forest with raw, resonant power.
We were introduced to the territorial call of the red ruffed lemur.

The forest, like us, seemed to respond, holding her breath, as the calls rippled outward, vibrating through trees and bone alike.

Under Pascal's guidance, we positioned ourselves. Catching glimpses of the group feeding, grooming, and vocalising. Each call seemed to stop time, each flash of fur deepening the intrigue and fascination for these remarkable creatures. A truly unique experience here in Masoala.

Exploration from forest to sea

From forest to ocean, the transition felt seamless. Snorkelling revealed a concealed kingdom. Dancing in a silent rhythm, the delicate, infinite ecosystem pulsed with life beneath the surface. Emerging from the water, the world above seemed both familiar and transformed by perspective.

By kayak, the coastline unfolded like a living canvas of green and blue. Shadows danced in emerald shallows as gentle waves lapped against the kayak's hull. Salty air offered a reprieve from the heat, as white sand infiltrated shoes and wilderness hearts.

Timeless Masoala

My trip to Masoala National Park was anything but defined by time.
Waving goodbye to the staff that turned to family, the beaches that became more than wallpaper, and the forest deepened my passion for nature. Sadness hovered, but could not take root; rather, a wave of gratitude washed over me.

Masoala National Park remains resilient; her forests stand against the trials of human expansion, and her waters flow unencumbered by threat. Protected, suspended in time, Masoala National Park defines timelessness.

This corner of the earth left me with more than memories and photos, but a knowing.

A knowing that beneath the forest, wildlife and waters, lies a deeper encounter, a listening stillness. A whispering forest spirit that captures wild souls and demands their return. So … until next time, Masoala!

Explore Masoala with us!